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There are more than a dozen artisanal book shops dotted across the Overberg, each with its own character, charm and grumpy rumpled owner who normally does not suffer fools. In other words excellent places for our erudite readers.
Here at Table & Tide we are a discerning bunch determined to root around the dusty corridors of second hand book stores where the suitably industrious can lay their hands on titles as eccentric as “De Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie” by Els M. Jacobs. It takes a unique and perhaps slightly mad pursuer of the printed word to appreciate the value of this hard cover printed in 1997.
Or how about “Water-mills, windmills and horse-mills of South Africa” by James Walton?
After decades of sleuthing, the editors of Table & Tide have decided to reveal their favourite book shops of the Overberg. This is an entirely subjective list, non-exhaustive, but backed up by personal experience the reporters have in those that have made the shortlist. Each will come with a score for diversity of books, friendliness, and knowledge embedded in the noggin of the salty and slightly crusty owner/manager. We will also describe highlights, such as they are.
Names have been changed to protect the innocent involved.
1. Blue House Books – Napier
There can be no doubt that this book store sits at the top of the dusty pile of second hand shops with it’s bright blue walls (roof paint said the owner, it’s half the price of wall paint), ancient and yet inevitable cat, and carefully laid out interior which resembles the after-effects of a 7.6 earthquake.
If you’re courageous, dip into the original first editions locked behind a cabinet where the key can/can’t be found depending on the time of day and slant of the sun. If you’re lucky, they’ll let you into the attic which is a treasure trove of publications, accessing them could be tricky however just don’t slip.
Like all excellent book store owners, they won’t be bamboozled to part with a valuable book for a handful of rands — these two know their book value because they look up the online price on Amazon.com. So if you’re expecting local-yokels giving away their collectable first editions because you’re an influencer in town, stand by for a financial snotklap.
Prices range from realistic to OMG! But haggle, people, because life is short.
Book Diversity: 9/10
Friendliness of Owner: 9/10
Embedded Noggin Knowledge: 7/10
Highlights: South African Natural history section and the vast array of sexy fiction
Location: 40 Sarel Cilliers Street, Napier
Contact: 0834152365 / bhimpey@icloud.com
2. Hemingways Books – Hermanus
The owner is an expert at sorting things out, an ideal characteristic for a book shop owner/keeper. Apparently in his previous life he ran a company specializing in business filing systems. As the storer of knowledge and an assortment of unique books, including his super expensive map books and delightful San histories, the owner/s (husband/wife or if you prefer, wife/husband) made their way into Hermanus from that epicentre of South African culture, White River, Mpumalanga.
Hemingways was named in Russia nogal as an excellent book store to visit (and they have the printed story to prove it) and is housed in an old house in the old town near the old harbour, behind the perlemoen shop, opposite a trendy coffee house so you can purchase your original 1895 copy of Webster’s dictionary then dart off for a single latte.
Where modern book stores smell like Mr Min, this one is all wax, horse glue, solid wooden shelves. Not that we here at Table & Tide are averse to sliding into an Exclusive Books, just that when you enter Hemingways, you know it’s more dangerous. The ideas scattered around the breezy interior are more threatening, they are pursuits of the ages, challenging preconceptions.
Vinyl records and art deco bric-a-brac lounge in the corner like Arizona bandits, hats pulled over their eyes. Sometimes you’ll enter and become aware that there’s no-one there, as if you’ve entered a twilight zone, alone amongst the billions of thoughts. Then, magically, the owner emerges from an ante chamber and mutters sotto voce that if you’re interested in the Bush War, there could be books through the low white doorway.
Book Diversity: 9/10
Friendliness of Owner: 9/10
Embedded Noggin Knowledge: 9/10
Highlights: Large book collection and photostat of Russian newspaper
Location: No.5, Victoria Square, 20 Long St, Hermanus, 7200
Contact: (+27) 83 629 6837. hemingwayshermanus@gmail.com
3. Oupa se Boekwinkel – Kleinmond
Ready! Aim! Read! Oupa se Boekwinkel lurks on the main road through to the most beautiful and tiny harbours, KleinMond. Little Mouth. It has one of the most impressive collections of books about mountains you’ll find anywhere in the world.
The editors have spent many happy hours wandering through Oupa se Boekwinkel but alas! We have not met oupa. He is incommunicado because shop managers phone him with questions like:
“There is someone here who is looking for books about the Belgian Congo…”
(Sound of someone on the other side)
“No he says he doesn’t want Joseph Conrad’s Heart of Darkness, he’s looking for books more about the Congo Wars of the 20th and 21st Century…”
And so it goes.
Book Diversity: 9/10
Friendliness of Owner: 9/10
Embedded Noggin Knowledge: 10/10
Highlights: Mountains and Marine titles, South African history, Military history.
Location: 32 2de Straat, Kleinmond
Contact: 0829233586 (Oupa doesn’t do email)
4. House of Books – Barrydale
Wondering through the labyrinthian rooms surrounded by oodles of titles, it’s easy to get lost in the House of Books. Finding preferred reading matter is one thing, it is entirely a different matter tracking down the bookseller who has an interesting story to tell. It is a cash only emporium, and come bearing loads of dosh because every room in this house is packed with delicious titles.
Vinyl and CDs are also squeezed into the home for those seeking art of a different form. South African publications are scattered across the maze like shop, along with walls of legal books and hardcovers from the last century. Fiction and non-fiction heavy, there’s also a thick array of Afrikaans books and others in French, German, Italian.
Tourists are known to frequent the shop, although sometimes, according to the owner, they appear somewhat rude. Perhaps it’s the European way?
Book Diversity: 9/10
Friendliness of Owner: 7/10 (although once he warms up he is quite charming and scored 10/10)
Embedded Noggin Knowledge: 10/10
Highlights: South African periodicals
Location: 37 B, 37 Van Riebeeck St, Barrydale, 6750
Contact: 0285721024 (Email? Are you mad?)
